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為什么要舍簡從繁復興漢服,難道這都是商家的利益驅使嗎
2020-01-11 17:03  www.idc-online.cn

写这篇文章的时候,我自己也很纠结。我学习服装设计与制作专业,并从事多年简约风女装穿搭。所谓简约风女装,就是为了迎合当下女生越来越有独立心。她们有自己的工作,她们不再依附男人,她们甚至在怀孕十月的时间都在上班,然后回去生了孩子,半个月就起来恢复身体。一个月后再出现,好像从没离开过自己的岗位一样自信洒脱。

When I wrote this article, I struggled myself. I study clothing design and production major, and engaged in years of simple fashion dress. The so-called simple style of women's clothing, is to cater to the current girls more and more independent. They have their jobs, they're no longer attached to men, they're even at work during their pregnancy in October, they're back having children and they're up for a half-month recovery. A month later again, as if never left their posts as free and easy.

简约风女装,让女生开始自信的穿起时尚西装、大衣,从颜色的艳丽到清新淡雅,从设计繁多到优雅大气。可忽然,就涌起了一群人,大声喊着“穿我华夏衣裳,兴我礼仪之邦”。这句话是在2016年一个汉服吧里出来的,在2018年在抖音内开始传播。大家开始大肆宣扬复兴汉服,大肆开始宣扬汉服之美,说那是我们汉族的服饰,要由我们这一代复兴起来。可为什么要舍简从繁复兴汉服?到底是华夏礼仪的再兴,还是商家利益驱使?

Simple style women's clothing, let girls start to confidently wear fashion suits, coats, from the color of the showy to fresh and elegant, from the design of many to elegant atmosphere. But suddenly, a crowd of people, shouting \"wear my Chinese clothes, the state of my etiquette \". The quote came out in a Han suit bar in 2016 and began to spread within the quiver in 2018. People began to promote the revival of the Han suit, and began to promote the beauty of the Han suit, saying that it is the dress of our Han nationality, to be revived by our generation. But why should she simply from the complex Xing Han suit? Is it the revival of Chinese etiquette, or business interests driven?

汉服,与汉人一词类似,就是“汉民族传统服饰”,又称汉衣冠、汉装、华服,是从黄帝即位到公元17世纪中叶(明末清初),在汉族的主要居住区,以“华夏-汉”文化为背景和主导思想,以华夏礼仪文化为中心,通过自然演化而形成的具有独特汉民族风貌的服饰。

Han suit, similar to the han people, is the \"traditional dress of the han people \", also known as the han clothing crown, han clothes, chinese clothes, is from the yellow emperor to the middle of the 17th century AD (in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties), in the main residential area of the Han nationality, the\" Chinese-Han \"culture as the background and leading thought, taking the Chinese etiquette culture as the center, through the natural evolution of the formation of the unique Han nationality style and style.

汉服“始于黄帝,备于尧舜”,源自黄帝制冕服。定型于周朝,并通过汉朝依据四书五经形成完备的冠服体系,成为神道设教的一部分。汉服还通过华夏法系影响了整个汉文化圈,亚洲各国的部分民族如日本、朝鲜、越南、蒙古、不丹等等服饰均具有或借鉴汉服特征。

Hanfu \"began in the Yellow Emperor, prepared in Yao Shun \", originated from the Yellow Emperor coronal clothing. Set in the Zhou Dynasty, and through the Han Dynasty according to the four books and five scriptures to form a complete system of crown clothing, become a part of the Shinto religion. Hanfu also influenced the whole chinese culture circle through the chinese legal system. Some ethnic groups in asia, such as japan, north korea, vietnam, mongolia, bhutan and so on, all had or used hanfu characteristics.

中国又称『华夏』,这一名称的由来就与汉服有关。中华天朝重衣冠礼仪。《周易·系辞下》曰“是以自天佑之,吉无不利,黄帝、尧、舜垂衣裳而天下治,盖取诸乾坤。”周公制周礼而治天下,被儒家尊为圣人。周礼通过《仪礼》、《周礼》、《礼记》的服章和仪式表现出来,因而衣冠、礼仪往往用来代指文明,汉服是礼仪的载体。

China, also known as \"Huaxia \", the origin of this name is related to Hanfu. Chinese tian dynasty heavy clothing crown ceremony instrument. The \"zhou yi ci\" said,\" since the blessing of the blessing, no ill-will, yellow emperor, yao, shun clothes and the world, cover the world.\" Zhou Gong system Zhou Li and rule the world, Confucianism as a saint. Zhou Li through \"Yi Li \",\" Zhou Li \",\" Li Ji\" clothing chapter and ceremony show, so dress, etiquette is often used to refer to civilization, Han suit is the carrier of etiquette.

为什么说汉服之兴,兴于皮毛?喜欢汉服的人,多为文艺的人,能够欣赏美的事物。在现代社会,已经祛除尊卑制度,恢复大家的穿衣自由、言论自由。这也是新的时代,历经上下五千年历史,更替而来。爱汉服,就穿汉服,可总有人扬言要复兴汉服!这一点上,就略有肤浅!

Why say Hanfu Xing, Xing Yu fur? People who like Hanfu, mostly literary and artistic people, can appreciate the beauty of things. In the modern society, has removed the inferiority system, restores everybody's clothing freedom, the speech freedom. This is also a new era, after five thousand years of history, the replacement. Love Hanfu, wear Hanfu, but some people always threatened to revive Hanfu! At this point, it's a little superficial!

古代从服饰、发饰、发型、腰间配饰,以及居住左右,都含着尊卑制度。甚至在未成年、成年、嫁娶的穿衣和发型都有一定的要求。所以如果热爱汉服,可以穿搭汉服,也可以宣扬汉服之美,闲暇时间出去游玩、逛街、拍照穿穿。如果非要高呼“复兴”,那真要好好去了解历史了!

Ancient dress, hair, hair, waist accessories, as well as living around, all contain the system of inferiority. Even in the minors, adults, married clothing and hair are certain requirements. So if love Hanfu, can wear Hanfu, can also promote the beauty of Hanfu, leisure time to go out to play, shopping, photo wear. If you have to shout \"revival \", you really have to understand history!

左右尊卑,根据朝代的不同,有所更替。这一点也有所沿袭,比如现代服饰我们在设计的时候,也是沿袭了男左、女右。这一点的设计,是因为女人在给自己系扣子的时候,是左手入扣。当男人穿上衣服之后,女人帮他扣扣子的时候,也是左手入口。其实在这一点上,衣服沿袭了曾经的男尊女卑。只是在新的时代里,结婚后的妻子默默做了,却根本没有人知道原因。

Left and right superiority, according to the different dynasties, some change. This also follows, such as modern dress when we design, is also followed by men left and women right. This point is designed because women are left-handed when they are buttoning themselves. When a man puts on his clothes and a woman helps him button up, it's also the left-hand entrance. In fact, at this point, clothes followed the once male inferiority. Only in the new era, married wife silently did, but no one knows why.

佩绶制度是衣冠里区分等级尊卑的一显著特征。《后汉书·舆服志》有:“古者君臣佩玉,尊卑有度”。佩縌就是结绶于縌,意即在佩玉的带纽上结彩组,与绶相连。“绶”是用彩丝织成的长条形饰物,组是官印上的绦带。平时官员在袍服外要佩挂组绶,并随身携带官印。

The system of wearing a ribbon is a remarkable characteristic of distinguishing rank and inferiority in clothes and clothes. Post-Han Shu Yu Zhi has:\" the ancient monarch and minister Pei Yu, the inferiority of the degree.\" It means to tie the ribbon to the spark, which means to tie the ribbon to the ribbon of the jade. \"Shou\" is made of colored silk long-shaped ornaments, the group is a tape on the official seal. Usually officials in the robes outside to wear a group of ribbons, and carry official stamp.

在汉代时期,绶的系结方式通常是打成一个大回环,然后下面系印章。印装于腰间的鞶囊中,系于绶的一端,垂于外边,绶的另一端垂于身后。故称印绶。汉初沿用了这种制度,并加以双印佩刀之饰。至孝明皇帝时,除了佩绶制度外,还增加了大佩制度。

During the Han Dynasty, the tie of the ribbon was usually made into a large loop, and then the seal was attached below. In the pocket of his loins, he fastened it to one end of the ribbon, hung from the outside, and the other end of the ribbon hung behind him. It's called print. This system was adopted in the early Han Dynasty, and it was decorated with double-printed knives. To the Emperor Xiaoming, in addition to the Peishou system, but also increased the Great Pei system.

其实喜爱汉服,真的单单是因为现在播出的影视作品中,穿汉服的男子、女子太美了。因为新的时代日子过得越来越好,即使穿着三米的马面,依旧可以去上班。因为你是白领,常做的就是坐在电脑前打字。穿着的美美的,心情愉悦,反而会增加灵感的活跃。

In fact, love Hanfu, is really only because of the film and television works broadcast now, wearing Hanfu men and women are too beautiful. Because the new era is getting better and better, even if wearing three meters of horse noodles, can still go to work. Because you are a white-collar worker, what you often do is to sit in front of a computer and type. Beautiful clothes, happy mood, but will increase the inspirational activity.

而在古代的汉人服饰中,并不是所有人都可以穿的很美,也并不是都要长长的拖在地上。更不会像是电视剧中那样,女主角什么都不用做,就能做到平步青云,一切皆有的状态!在服饰的发展中,存在很多朝代的更替,但是那个时期的贫民也是被限制材质穿搭的。甚至你再有钱,也不可以配玉饰。就像魏晋时期,只有皇帝和太子的腰带可以佩戴玉带。即使是皇帝的别的儿子,也是不可以的。

And in the ancient Han costume, not all people can wear very beautiful, not all to drag on the ground. Not like in the TV series, the heroine doesn't have to do anything, can achieve a level, everything has a state! In the development of clothing, there are many dynasties, but the poor of that period is also restricted material wear. Even if you have money, you can't go with jade. As in the Wei and Jin dynasties, only the belt of the emperor and the prince could wear a jade belt. Not even the other sons of the emperor.

汉朝最后一个皇帝是汉献帝刘协,而刘协之后也有新的汉族人朝代,所以汉服一定不是一个朝代的服饰,而汉服也不是单说的汉朝的服饰。

The last emperor of the Han Dynasty was the Han Xiandi Liu Xie, and Liu Xie also had a new Han dynasty after the Han Dynasty, so the Han suit must not be a dress of the dynasty, and the Han suit was not the dress of the Han Dynasty alone.

汉服之止,就是最后的清朝颁发的禁令“剃发易服”时被禁的汉民族传统服饰,汉服。在清朝末年,已经开始进入一个新的时代。国外好多国家已经开始一切从简。但是清朝还是穿着不易行动的服饰,扎着长长的辫子。

The end of the Han suit, is the last Qing Dynasty issued a ban on \"hair-shaving easy clothing\" when banned Han nationality traditional dress, Han suit. In the late Qing Dynasty, it had begun to enter a new era. Many countries abroad have begun to simplify everything. But the Qing Dynasty still wears the dress which is not easy to move, wears the long braid.

之后的时代我们就知道了,就是新中国的成立。也就是如今的一切从简,男女不再有尊卑的束缚。只要女人有梦想,也照样可以拼一番天地。甚至现在女人越发的自强,开始崇尚没有婚姻的束缚。这都是新的时代,给与我们的机遇和环境。

Later we knew that the founding of new China. That is, the simplicity of today, men and women no longer have the shackles of inferiority. As long as a woman has a dream, she can still fight the world. Even now women become more self-improvement, began to advocate the shackles of no marriage. These are new times, opportunities and circumstances.

所有喜欢汉服的人,一定都记得汉服第一人王乐天。他穿着汉服走在街上,引来关注和报道。其实这是一个契机,就是大家忽然发现,原来穿着汉服上街,可以引起这样大的关注。汉服真正被大家认识,不是在街上和人群中,而是来自于短视频。因为汉服作为日常衣服穿搭,肯定是不行的。所以多用于汉服爱好者的聚会穿,在旅行和上班中穿搭的汉服,也是选择颇为便利一些的。

All the people who like the Han suit must remember the first person of the Han suit, Wang Letian. He walked down the street in Han suit, attracting attention and reports. In fact, this is an opportunity, is suddenly found that the original wearing Han suit on the street, can cause such great attention. Hanfu is really known, not in the street and crowd, but from the short video. Because Hanfu as a daily clothing wear, certainly not. So it is more convenient to use it for the party wear of Hanfu lovers, and to wear it in travel and work.

大的汉服聚会,多出现在旅游景点和发达的城市,比如颇有古典韵味的西塘,在每年都会举行汉服文化节。在2019年的西塘汉服文化节,是10月26日-29日。这次的文化节已经明显看到,越来越商业化。比如最大的赢家就是棠川纪,组成了一队很有颜值的未婚夫方阵,一经出场,就引发游客的大量转发和传播。不仅捧红了当下的汉服模特鹤川、鹿荼白、句芒,还给店铺吸引了大量的粉丝。后期推出了鹤川、句芒同款,也是上架一购而空。

Large hanfu parties, mostly in tourist attractions and developed cities, such as the classical flavor of the xitang, every year will hold a hanfu cultural festival. In 2019 Xitang Hanfu Culture Festival, is October 26-29. The festival has become more and more commercial. For example, the biggest winner is the Tang Chuanji, formed a team of very respectable fiance square, once the appearance, triggered a large number of tourists forwarding and dissemination. Not only the popularity of the current Han suit model Hechuan, deer white, but also attracted a large number of fans to the shop. Later launched Hechuan, the same sentence, is also on the shelves and empty.

还记得徐娇吗,这个致力于宣传汉服,自己也经常穿的女孩。据说是被汉服圈所排斥的,主要是因为她宣传汉服,是为了利益。她是自己喜欢汉服,做了商家,然后自己做模特宣传。为此汉服爱好者,觉得她是为了利益,而不是单纯的喜爱。

Remember Xu Jiao, this dedicated to the promotion of Hanfu, they also often wear the girl. It is said to be rejected by the Han suit circle, mainly because she propagandized the Han suit for the benefit. She is herself like Hanfu, do business, and then do their own model publicity. For this lover of Hanfu, think she is for the benefit, not simply love.

其实汉服的复兴,也是商业的口号。是为了让汉服成为一种情怀,就像之前的文艺女装一样。新的时代,唯有梦想和情怀不破。

如果你真的是汉服爱好者,你就会发现,不是所有朝代的汉服都进行复兴的。商家主要选了两个朝代,那就是明制和魏晋。魏晋时期的服饰比较有仙气,很多仙侠剧以及架空时代的武侠剧,多为穿这样的服饰,所以我们在影视作品中常常看到。

If you're really a fan of Hanfu, you'll find that not all dynasties'Hanfus are revived. Merchants mainly selected two dynasties, that is, the Ming system and Wei and Jin dynasties. The costumes of the Wei and Jin dynasties are more immortals, many fairy chivalrous dramas and the martial arts drama of the overhead era, mostly for wearing such clothing, so we often see in the film and television works.

再看明制,就对历史背景有所要求。这个时代中女子的地位其实还是可以的,不会像是清朝那样三宫六院,女子地位很低。而且这个朝代女子即使家境一般,只要比较清白,就可以嫁入皇族。这类的服饰比较华丽,上面多为大面积绣花,穿出来很有美感。

Look at the Ming system again, there is a request for historical background. The status of women in this era is actually OK, not like the Qing Dynasty as three houses and six courts, the status of women is very low. And this dynasty woman even if the family is ordinary, as long as more innocent, can marry into the royal family. This kind of dress is more gorgeous, above for a large area of embroidery, wear out a very beautiful feeling.

其实汉服终究是一部分人喜爱的服饰,穿上颇为优美。像是之前中国人在婚嫁的时候,喜欢红色,白色很是忌讳,如今也可以接纳了穿西方的白色婚纱。在这个人文自由的时期,一切都以尊重人的自由为主。但是上升到“复兴”这样的高度,还是不敢苟同。

In fact, Han suit is part of the people's favorite clothing, wearing quite beautiful. Like before the chinese married in marriage, like red, white is very taboo, now can also accept wearing western white wedding dress. In this period of human freedom, everything is dominated by respect for human freedom. But rising to the level of \"revival \"still does not agree.